How to Install Large Format Tile - A Complete Guide

Large format tile installation can be a difficult task, but it doesn’t have to be complicated. Here’s a complete guide for installing large format tile.

Rules for Tile Installation

Before you can begin any tile installation, there are some things to keep in mind:

• Ensure a flat foundation: Make sure that the ground surface is perfectly flat. With larger tile pieces, even tiny flaws in ground surfaces can cause drastic unevenness in the end result, like lippage from uneven edges. If there are damages in the substrate, use self-leveling cement if needed for a flat surface.

• Ensure a clean foundation: Be sure to prepare your surface before you begin installing. The only thing you want standing between the substrate and your tile is the mortar that holds them together.

• Ensure 90% mortar coverage: For large tile installations, apply mortar to the back of the tile and the surface to ensure a 90%+ coverage (this is especially important for tiles over 20”).

• Ensure wider grout lines: Use at least a minimum of 3/16”  grout joint in order to accommodate any tile movement.

• Ensure proper curing time: Make sure to allow the mortar to cure the proper time before you grout—typically 24-72 hours.

Tools You’ll Need

Before you can begin, you’re going to need a few important tools for an efficient installation:

• Specialized Suction Cup Lifters: This will make lifting and lowering tile much easier and lower the risk of breaking materials. At Omni Cubed, we provide tile XL Support Frames from different sizes, designed just for the task.

• Tile Leveling Tools: Such as clips or wedges that can prevent uneven edges and will keep the tiles flat while the mortar dries.

• Large Format Tile Dolly/Transport System: A cart or dolly can make moving tile much easier by keeping the tile from breaking. Omni Cubed offers a variety of carts and dollies, specially designed for transporting tile material safely.

• Additional Tools: 

• Tile spacers,

• Rubber mallet,

• Large notched trowel—be sure to use a deeper notch (like ½” x ½” depending on your tile size),

• Tile cutting tools (such as a wet saw or manual large format tile cutter),

• Mortar mixer, and drill with a mixer paddle,

• Buckets, 

• Tape measure and chalk line,

• Straightedge (longer length).

• Important note: Be sure to use medium bed mortar in tile installations (especially if the tiles exceed 20” x 20”).

Key Tips:

• Always handle large format tiles with care—use the proper tools like suction lifters to ensure they won’t be damaged in the process.

• Buy extra tiles to accommodate any possible mistakes in the process.

• Cut and install safely and carefully. Use the proper protection whenever you use tile cutting tools, and be sure to follow all safety precautions throughout installation.
  

Step 1: Preparation

Before anything else, preparation must come first, from the tools to the tiles.

• Clean the substrate thoroughly of any wax, debris, or grease to ensure a completely clean and smooth surface. 

• Check for any damages in the surface areas–cracks, loose spots—and repair, patch up, and level unevenness for a flat surface.

• Undercut doorjambs to allow the tile pieces to slip underneath.

• Gather all the tools you need for installation. 

Step 2: Layout & Cutting

• Always find the center and mark of the room first, and use chalk lines from the center point of the room to the center points of the opposite walls. This will create a grid—remember the 3/4/5 rule—this will ensure a symmetrical placement. Be sure to divide the room further by snapping more chalk lines that are parallel with the original lines.

• Practice dry-laying some of the tiles to be able to begin visualizing the pattern, use a specialized suction cup to safely lift tile.

• Mark the tile to correct lengths to fit the pattern. Make the full length cuts with a tile saw, straight or diagonal cuts with a tile cutter, and use a nipper to achieve a curved cut.

Step 3: Adhesive

• Use a high-quality thinset mortar (usually LFT or LHT), and mix with the proper tools (per the instructions of the manufacturer). Be sure only to mix small batches of mortar to keep it fresh, usually enough to be used from 30 minutes to no more than 60 minutes.

• Use the notched side of the trowel to comb a layer of mortar on the substrate at a 45-degree angle. Remove any excess to ensure a uniform setting. Only spread enough  mortar that can set within 15 minutes.

• Make sure to double-butter: not just the surface but the back of the tile as well, to ensure a 90%+ coverage. Always be sure to comb your mortar lines from the center first, then toward the outer edges to give air a clear path to escape. Again, applying the mortar at a 45-degree angle with the trowel.

Step 4: Setting

• Start the first tile in a corner of your grid, and work from there. 

• Set one tile at a time to fit your pattern, placing them carefully, pressing and twisting to remove any air pockets. 

• Set tile spacers between each set tile to leave even spaces for grout. 

• Perimeter tiles go in last, leaving a ¼ inch gap between the wall and tile.

• Use a mallet to gently tap and set the tiles into the mortar. 

• Then use level clips or wedges to ensure a flat, uniform surface. 

• Remove any excess mortar adhesive before they set (using a putty knife for joints and a damp sponge for the tile pieces).

Step 5: Finishing

Important note: Do not walk on tiles or begin grouting until they are completely set—typically 24 - 72 hours.

• After the tiles have completely cured, remove the leveler tools.

• Now, you can begin grouting

• Follow the instructions of the grout manufacturer on the package. Make small batches to keep it fresh (usually no more than what can be used in 30 minutes).

• Remove the tile spacers and begin to spread the grout on the tile surface and put it into the joint spaces with a rubber float tool (be sure to angle it at a 45-degree angle). Remove excess grout with the edge of the float as you go.

• Wait for the grout to set a bit (about 20 minutes), then remove grout residue from the surface with a damp sponge.

• Let the grout set and dry completely before polishing, rinsing, and cleaning.

• Wait at least 72 hours for it to completely set before heavy use. Be sure not to apply any polish or sealant for about 3 weeks (or as per manufacturer instructions).
  

FAQ

1. Is large format tile harder to install?

Yes, large format tile is harder to install than regular sized to smaller tile. Due to their size and weight, large format tile installation takes more effort, attentive care, and planning in order to safely install without damaging the fragile pieces.

2. What is the 3/4/5 rule for laying tile?

The 3/4/5 rule is a method to create a perfect 90 degree angle in a room to ensure tile layout is square. By using a piece of chalk line and measuring 3 units from a long chalk line on the floor parallel to the longest, straightest wall to serve as the main reference.

3. Do I need a special thinset for large tiles?

Yes, for large tiles, you need a special thinset: either LFT (Large Format Tile) mortar or Large and Heavy Tile (LHT) mortar. These special thinsets must be used for any tile with a side of 15 inches or greater.

4. Should I use type N or S mortar?

For large tile installation, use type S mortar. Type N mortar is better for above-ground work that won’t be bearing any weight or loads (such as decorative tile for walls). Type S mortar is better for load-bearing tasks or below-grade tasks (such as foundations, patios, or retaining walls).

5. How thick can type S mortar be applied before?

Type S mortar can usually be applied in ¼ an inch up to ½ inch thickness for general applications.

6. What are the two types of thinset?

There are two main types of thinset: modified and unmodified. Unmodified thinset is the more basic of the two, usually made up of cement, sand, and water retention agents. Modified consists of additives (acrylic/latex) for better strength, adhesion, and flexibility.